'Informative, diverting, encouraging and inspirational' Joe Simpson, author of "Touching the Void. "

In the mid 1970s, Hilary Bradt spent 18 months backpacking through South America with her husband George, writing their first guide and thus founding Bradt Travel Guides on the way. From 1979 to 1992 she visited Peru and other South American countries for two months each summer leading treks for an American tour operator, and occasionally thereafter for other companies. She reckons to have visited Machu Picchu at least 25 times

Introduction ix PART ONE G ENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3 History 3, People: past and present 6, Language 11 Chapter 2 N atural History and Conservation 17 Geology 17, Geography 18, Climate 19, Flora 20, Fauna 25, Protected areas of Peru 35, Field guides 42 Chapter 3 Practical Information 45 When to visit 45, Backpacking or organised trekking? 49, Tour operators 50, Tourist information 51, Red tape 52, Getting there and away 52, What to take 53, Money and budgeting 59, Getting around 61, Accommodation 63, Eating and drinking 65, Handicrafts 70, Photography 71, Media and communications 72, Business 74, Volunteering and giving something back 74 Chapter 4 B ackpacking and Trekking: Deciding What's Best for You 77 Where to go: an overview 77, Backpacking or trekking? 80, Organised trekking: choosing the right company 80, Trekking: the experience 82, Backpacking: the experience 86, Village etiquette for independent backpackers 91, Minimum impact 93 Chapter 5 H ealth and Safety 96 Health 96, Safety 107 PART TWO TR EKKING AND BACKPACKING GUIDE 113 Chapter 6 Lima 115 History 115, Getting there and away 115, Getting around 119, Where to stay 121, Where to eat and drink 122, Entertainment and nightlife 124, Useful addresses 125, Tourist information 127, Maps 128 Chapter 7 Cajamarca and Chachapoyas Regions 129 Cajamarca town and region 129, Cumbe Mayo to San Pablo 133, The Chachapoyas region 136, Exploring the ruins around Chachapoyas 139, The waterfalls 146 Chapter 8 T he Cordilleras: Negra, Blanca and Huayhuash 151 The cordilleras: an overview 151, Parque Nacional Huascaran 154, Huaraz 158, Caraz 166, Trekking and backpacking overview 167, Trekking routes in the Cordillera Blanca 171, Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash 198 Chapter 9 T he Central Andes 211 Huancayo 211, The Cordillera Central 217, Other places of interest in the region 221, Trekking the Inca Royal Road: Castillo via Huanuco Viejo to Yanahuanca 224 Chapter 10 Cusco and the Vicinity 231 History of the Incas 231, Cusco 233, Hiking, trekking and backpacking 251, Hiking routes around Cusco 254, The Valley of Lares 271, Ollantaytambo and around 278 Chapter 11 T he Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota 283 The Vilcabamba region 283, Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) 285, The Inca Trail 290, Salkantay hikes 298, Other treks in the Cordillera Vilcabamba 310, The Vilcanota region 321 Chapter 12 T he Arequipa Area 343 Arequipa 343, Climbing the volcanoes 350, The Colca Canyon 354, Trekking in the Colca Canyon 357 Appendix 1 Language 362 Appendix 2 List of Major hikes and treks 364 index 369